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To borrow a few apt words from the folks at La Sportiva, the Genius is the tip of a very sharp spear. A synergy of multiple concepts and technologies, the Genius is worthy of the high praise (and the hefty price tag) it has been given. The revolutionary no-edge concept combined with a wrap-around P3 midsole that provides a taut and responsive feel gives the La Sportiva Genius an unparalleled blend of sensitivity and support on the rock. Add a lacing system that enables you to dial in a perfect fit and some midlife crisis sports car flashiness, and you've got a sending machine that looks as rad as it feels.Everything on the Genius is the well-thought-out result of some seriously innovative minds with ample time and budget for research and development.

From a Testarossa inspired heel that is supple, sensitive, and still manages a suction cup fit, to the now proven No Edge concept toe, the Genius is a marvel of design. The P3 midsole borrowed from the La Sportiva Solution helps the Genius keep its shape, and the power of your foot focused through the toe. The clever off-center lacing system allows the Genius to maintain the rubber on the top of the toe that makes toe hooking a breeze and lets the wearer dial in a perfect fit.

Though aggressively downturned and moderately asymmetrical, the Genius still maintains your foot in a seemingly natural position. Complete the package with ultra sticky and super durable XS Edge rubber, and the Genius' name speaks for itself. 10SpecsLa Sportiva GeniusLa Sportiva KatakiLa Sportiva OtakiLa Sportiva SolutionLa Sportiva FuturaStyleLaceLaceVelcroVelcroVelcroUpperSuede leather / MicrofiberSuede leather / MicrofiberLeather/ MicrofiberLeather / LoricaLeather/Synthetic LeatherWidth OptionsRegularRegularRegularRegularRegularLiningUnlinedPacificPacificHF in toe box and arch area onlyUnlinedRubber TypeVibram XS Grip2Vibram XS EdgeVibram XS EdgeVibram XS Grip 2Vibram XS Grip2Rubber Thickness (millimeters)3 mm4 mm4 mm4 mm3 mm. The No-Edge technology allowed our tester feel every edge and ripple on this techy, vertical wall at Wild Iris.Rest assured, after a brief adjustment period, these puppies will stick when you press into precarious micro edges and ripples. This is a tremendous advantage when on-sighting as it will help you push through the moves when you're near your limit.

The Genius will make your footwork feel brilliant even when you're pumped stupid and flailing wildly for holds. Crack ClimbingYou wouldn't use a Ferrari to pull a horse trailer, and you shouldn't climb cracks in your sport climbing shoes, but we bet you could. While not comfortable enough for miles of jamming, the Genius does just fine on steep finger cracks and shorter trad climbs.Additionally, the rubber at the top of the toe that is meant for toe hooking provides decent protection in small cracks.

While the Genius would be entirely appropriate for high-end traditional climbing, it would not be a first choice for easier traditional climbing where a flatter shoe would be a lot more comfortable. For longer days on multi-pitch adventures, or Butora Altura.

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The La Sportiva Kataki is also better for single pitch crack projects because it has a low volume toe that can weasel into thinner cracks while edging almost as well as the Genius. PocketsYou'd have to work hard to find a style of climbing the Genius didn't thrive on, even trees. Pockets are no exception.

Built on the Testarossa last, the Genius is aggressively downturned and has a LaspoFlex midsole that extends beyond the toe. This technology means that standing on minuscule edges and in super shallow pockets is even easier. The soft mid sole and radical down turn are great for climbing through steep roofs.SensitivityFrom heel to toe, the Genius may be the most sensitive shoe on the market, rivaled only by the Scarpa Chimera. While the Chimera achieves its sensitivity with thin rubber and an extremely soft sole, the Genius uses its No Edge design, which brings your toe closer to the edge of the shoe and the holds you're trying to feel.With a soft heel and a slightly wide toe box that lets your toes rest in a more natural position, the Genius will let you feel your feet and also every feature of the rock. This sensitivity gives the climber an unparalleled sense of security and confidence in even the most marginal of foot placements. Pushing out of your comfort zone and through the grades has never been easier than in the Genius.

The offset lacing system lets you dial in the fit and makes for extra room on top of the shoe for effective toe hooking.ValueDo you love smearing, edges, and bright colors? If the answer is yes, the Genius is the shoe for you. It comes with a whopping price tag that requires a little justification to take the plunge.

First, consider the comfort, that works out to 19 bucks a toe. Second, they can definitely up your grade, and getting off the plateau you've been stuck on can be priceless. Third, they're cheaper than a sports car, but they'll make you feel like you're driving one on the rock.

They are also remarkably durable, and even with consistent use, they have shown little wear after two months of use. ConclusionWhether or not you're a believer (or have yet to permit yourself to be converted, go on test your conviction) in No Edge shoes, the worthiness of the Genius is hard to deny. A fusion of many inspired designs, this model blends the best aspects of some tried and true favorites to create a unique and very complete package. If you aren't quite ready to shell out serious cash for the Geniuses, check out their relative the Skwama, which is a worthy but cheaper option for most styles of climbing.